The fight against the larvae of the May beetle: we destroy the enemy in his den

control of the Maybug larvae
Fighting Maybug Larvae

Hello! Something I recalled how a couple of years ago literally there was no escape from the larvae of the May beetle and the bear in my summer house.

I was so confused at first. At that time, I had no idea how to get them out.

The initial struggle with the larvae of the May beetle took place with varying success, but then I once and for all got rid of these underground pests. I know that now many are faced with similar problems in their areas. So now I will tell you my secret of success, which allowed me to defeat the larvae.

10 ways to deal with Maybug larvae

May beetle larvae - trouble for gardeners. Getting rid of them is very difficult. The fact is that they live deep in the earth, and you can see them only by digging the soil.

Important!
The spring invasion of May beetles (or Khrushchev) begins when the first young leaves appear on a birch, which they eat with pleasure. There, beetles mate on trees, after which the uterus is buried deep in the ground. Having laid about 70 eggs there, she dies.

Hatched larvae look like white worms, and so far they are small and weak. In the first year they are not dangerous, as they feed on plant debris. Having strengthened the next year, they become the "plague" of the garden, because eat the roots of absolutely all plants. But they also have a favorite delicacy - strawberries.

Larva Fight

The fight against larvae of the May beetle begins with digging the soil. If these pests have chosen your site, it is necessary to dig the soil deep in the spring and autumn, manually selecting all the larvae from the ground. This is one of the most effective ways to cleanse the garden and the garden from this scourge.

  • In the spring, on the site, especially around the trees, you can plant white clover. Scientists have found that the larvae cannot tolerate nitrogen, and clover has the ability to take it from the air and accumulate it in the soil. Such land would be unsuitable for the lives of these pests.
  • Larvae love to eat strawberry roots and can destroy almost the entire garden in a season. Therefore, in spring it is necessary to shed the beds with berry bushes with a solution of water with ammonia: 10-20 ml per bucket of water. You can also make grooves with a depth of 40 cm and pour in them a solution of decis or karbofos.
  • In the fall, it is recommended to dig the soil and pour it with whiteness or add a little bleach when digging. And in the spring you can sprinkle the ground with crushed eggshells.
  • To process bushes of strawberries and currants with a solution of onion husks. Prepare it like this: 100 gr. soak onion and garlic husks in warm water (10 l). Close the container and leave to infuse for 3-5 days. Dilute the resulting infusion 1: 1 and pour berry bushes under the root.
  • An excellent result in the fight against these earth pests is the use of the Nemabact nematode, which is contained in the finished bio-soil. The only condition is that you need to purchase this bio-soil either from manufacturers or in large specialized stores where all storage conditions will be met.
  • You can use insecticides against soil pests: Aktara, Pochin, Zemlin, Bazudin and others.

Ways to deal with adult bugs

To reduce the number of larvae in the soil and prevent females from laying new eggs, it is necessary to destroy adults. There are several ways, using which, you can significantly reduce the population of snake on your site.

The elderberry, lupine and all cruciferous beetles, for example, turnip or turnip, scare away bugs well. By planting these plants, you will get rid of some of the pests. You can make traps from plastic bottles or glasses: fill them with water with jam or kvass and hang them on trees.

Every day you need to check them and remove the bugs that got there. Another option is the trap: an old basin or other similar container is treated with an adhesive, for example, solid oil.

You can buy and stick inside the tape from flies. Any lighting device is installed in the center of the trap, you can even use a solar-powered flashlight. Such a trap is set for the night under a tree. Insects attracted by light will fly and stick to the trap. In the morning, it remains only to remove the caught pests.

Although it is not so easy to remove the May beetle larvae from its site, you should not give up. By combining these methods of control, over the season you can reduce the population of these pests or even get rid of them for good.

5 Ways to Protect Against Cartilage

May bug, or rather, its larvae (khrushchets), very much annoy us in the garden, and in the garden, and in the vineyard. Usually they fight it only in the garden, as damaged potatoes or root crops are visible.

Advice!
The activities of this "hard worker" in the garden and vineyard go unnoticed. Meanwhile, only 3-5 larvae can eat the roots of a young tree, causing its death.

Grapes are also damaged by Maybug larvae. However, the plant does not die from larvae - grapes have great vitality. Having lost the calcaneal roots, expels the dewy, losing the dewy, again switches to the calcaneal.

But yields, naturally, are very low. Shoots ripen poorly, and even with a small load, the bushes look overloaded. There are several proven ways to deal with this pest.

Method 1 - using a shovel

Oddly enough, the easiest way to deal with soil pests is to select and destroy larvae when digging a site and tree trunks. Moreover, it is necessary to dig up in the spring, since by autumn the pest larvae leave the heat in more moist and cool soil layers, to a depth of 60-70 cm.

I understand that the opponents of the shovel do not like to dig, but here they will have to cultivate the land twice a year. But there is no other way. Virgin plots are especially dangerous. As a rule, there are a lot of larvae of gruel. Such plantations must be dug up. Sometimes in the fall, in order to kill the larvae that have gone deep, a little dry bleach is added to the ground.

It’s best to simply destroy the weeds in the area, especially wheat grass, which must be cleaned in the neighborhood as well, as it is a real delicacy not only for khrushchites, but also for wireworms.

Method 2 - Using Grass

Can be destroyed by crunchy grass. But not ordinary - you need to sow perennial lupine in the garden or vegetable garden for green manure. Just before that, you need to remove weeds and sow weed thicker so that the seedlings of the remaining weeds are drowned.

The essence of the method is that lupine for larvae of grubs is poison. And since there will be no other herbs nearby, they will have to eat lupine, which will cause the mass death of the pest. This is a simple and very effective solution to the problem.

Method 3 - scare off

It’s worth mentioning right away that it is easier to scare off larvae in a garden, more difficult in berries and vineyards and almost impossible in a garden.

Attention!
It scares away watering (under a bush) of seedlings of potatoes or holes before planting seedlings of vegetable crops with a solution of potassium permanganate (3-5 g per 10 l of water).In principle, it is possible to exterminate the larvae. Before planting berries and orchards, the places planned for planting apple trees, plums, currants and other crops are recommended to be treated with ammonia water.

Of course, it is better to do this in May, and then throughout the summer to keep the site clean of weeds so that the larvae of the cherubs move more in search of food, come into contact with the treated soil and die.

In order to prevent strawberries (under bushes), pour ammonia solution (10-20 ml per 10 liters of water), or add chlorine-containing fertilizers to the culture.

Method 4 - Poison

You can take any insecticide (Aktara, Decis, Arrivo, Sherpa, karbofos), dilute according to the instructions and use the prepared solution to lightly water the soil around the bushes. You only need to do this in the spring or early summer, a month before the harvest. In the second half of the summer, the raspberries are already deep in the soil, and such watering is unlikely to help.

Method 5 - kill the bugs

We see May bugs in May. During this period, they fly, they can be shaken off the trees in the morning, when they are inactive, and destroyed. They will help to reduce the number of these bugs and light traps.

It is necessary to take into account the fact that they eat foliage. Therefore, it is enough at this time to annually cultivate the garden and shrubs with karbofos, and the number of grapes in the soil will decrease annually.

The difficulty lies only in the fact that the chemicals are sprayed on the trees only after flowering, and the May bug flies at this time.

The fight against the larvae of May beetles

The larvae of May beetles hide in the ground at a depth of 50-60 cm and can only be found by deep digging of the site. In this case, they must be selected and destroyed manually.

Important!
I received this advice from several gardeners, and with a vivid biography of how the garden was dug up, how the larvae were searched and found !!! But still, I poorly imagine this process in its execution. Although, if they finish it, it is quite possible that I will begin to carry out “excavations”.

The larva is in the soil for 3-4 years, after which it turns into an adult beetle, which already feeds on the leaves of the trees. Larvae mainly harm plantings of vegetables and berries. They especially like the roots of strawberries.

For preventive purposes, in spring, shed the soil under the strawberry bushes with a solution of ammonia (10-20 ml per 10 l of water) or in the strawberry rows make grooves about 40 cm deep and shed them with 0.1-0.2% decis solution. What gives ammonia for strawberries? Helps to get rid of Maybug larvae.

But the greatest effect of course is given by special preparations for the destruction of soil-borne pests. These are insecticides - Zemlin (Russia), Bazudin (Switzerland), Pochin (Russia) with the active substance diazinon.

"Aktara" VDG (Russia) - the active substance thiamethoxam. Pesticide "Antichrush" (Ukraine).

Well, the most effective and safe for plants and humans is the biological preparation Nemabact, which is based on a nematode that selectively destroys soil pests, including May larvae. The effectiveness of "Nemabakt" in the fight against chafer reaches 80-90%.

Just pay attention to the storage conditions of this drug, it contains living organisms and therefore it is better to buy it in specialized stores or from manufacturers.

Also, do not forget about preventing re-infection with the larvae of the May beetle in your area. For prevention (when the plants are still not damaged) you need:

  • again in the spring to shed the soil under the bushes of strawberries (strawberries) with a solution of ammonia (10-20 ml per 10 liters of water) or in the rows make grooves about 40 cm deep and shed them with 0.1-0.2% decis solution.
  • They say, in the autumn, dig and pour with "White" or another chlorine-containing liquid, can you add a little bleach during digging ??? - but I wouldn’t do this, but simply transferred the strawberries to another section.

Now keeping strawberries in one place for more than 2 years is not recommended. well maxisum 3 years do not forget to mulch the soil well. and for this it’s easiest to use agrofibre, we have already planted strawberries under an agrotex (strawberries in a spunbond).

Cockchafer vs Strawberry

One of the most dangerous pests for strawberries is the May bug, namely its larvae. The Chafer beetle (Khrushchev) belongs to the subfamily of Khrushchev. In the European part of Russia, there are two types of beetle: western and eastern. They are similar in lifestyle. They begin to fly in the spring (in the middle zone of Russia - at the beginning of May, to the south - in the middle of April).

Advice!
The flight of beetles lasts an average of 30 days, in the evenings, around the trees whose leaves they eat. Two weeks later, mating occurs. To lay eggs, the female digs into the soil to a depth of 15-25 cm, avoiding dense soils.

Oviposition takes place in three to four doses; in total, the female lays about 70 eggs. Larvae are born in three to six weeks. 3-4 years develop.

At younger ages, they feed on humus, and in the second or third year of life, they usually switch to feeding on plant roots. They hibernate in soil to a depth of 1.5 m. In spring, larvae of the May beetle rise in the upper layers of the soil and continue feeding. The most voracious larvae of four years of age.

In the fourth summer of life, they pupate, and after a month and a half, a beetle leaves, which usually remains to winter in the soil. The wintering place for the May beetle, as well as for its larvae, is the soil.

The measures to combat these voracious caterpillars are as follows: When digging future beds under your strawberries, carefully select all the bugs and their larvae, especially if they are white or yellowish. Better yet, sow the predecessors on the beds: lupins, marigolds (buckworms), buckwheat, canola, and dig them up.

Lupine is a perennial plant that blooms from June to August, reaching a height of 1.5 m. The leaves are palm-complex, 10-15-lobed, lanceolate plates on the underside are covered with silky hairs. 50-80 bright blue flowers are collected in vertically arranged whorls.

On the beds where lupine grows, the weedy vegetation usually does not grow, therefore, the larval larvae are forced to eat the lupine roots, which are poison for them. (There are known cases of poisoning of children and adults with lupine seeds).

Marigolds belong to the family Asteraceae. Three varieties of this plant are best known: marigolds erect, marigolds rejected and marigolds thin-leaved.

Attention!
Compost and dung heaps, as the most acceptable for their lives, shovel in late autumn and spring when the street is cold, the larvae die from the cold. Better yet, under compost and humus heaps, lay a whole plastic film, which will become a barrier to the penetration of larvae for wintering from humus heaps into the soil.

Do not use for planting areas that have not been cultivated for a long time (not cultivated with agricultural crops) and pastures. These areas must be plowed and sown with green mass, buckwheat or plants from the genus pumpkin, at least one year before the cultivation of strawberries. Do not lay the beds near, with large soddy areas that can become a source of May beetles and larvae.

Strawberry leaves withered for no reason (in most cases) - the root beetle larva eats.

Pour a watering can onto the bush and dig it out, gently pull the bush out with a lump of earth and begin to slowly shake the ground until the larva falls off the ground (in my practice, in many cases, one larva was caught in the roots, although there are exceptions 2 and 4 , and more), try to carefully plant a strawberry bush in place, you will have to sacrifice berries and part of the leaves - cut off and arrange good watering, you can save the bush.

The humus and compost that you intend to make under strawberry-strawberry beds are better to manually reseed, because you can bring the whole family of grubs from small larvae to adult individuals of the May beetle on your beds.

Bazudin is a non-systemic organophosphorus insecticide with a wide spectrum of action that protects crops from soil insects and pests. The period of the protective effect of the drug is 6 weeks.

The beds planned for planting garden strawberries are recommended to be treated with ammonia water. The application of this fertilizer, of course, is best done in April - May, and then throughout the summer to keep the site under steam and clean from weeds, so that the larvae come into contact with the treated soil and die.

To protect young strawberry seedlings, before planting, it is necessary to dip their roots in the solution of the drug "Aktara" (0.5%). Aktara is an enteric contact insecticide. Another effective substance from the May beetle larvae is the “Force” preparation, which is applied to future strawberry-strawberry beds 12 kg / ha 8–9 days before planting.

Important!
Force is a granular pyrethroid insecticide with high gas phase activity to protect plants from soil pests.

After the Force insecticide enters the soil under the influence of soil moisture, the granules slowly dissolve, followed by the release of the active substance in the form of vapors that fill free soil capillaries and are actively bound to soil particles. Thus, the Force insecticide is completely concentrated at the place of application, protecting the culture from harmful insects.

And finally, the most common drug that is sold in every horticultural store is Antichrush. The half-life is 45 days, so if the berries are already on the bushes, then you can not process it. Antichrush is sold in liquid form, 10 ml, 30 ml, 150 ml. It is used against a wide range of pests. Under strawberries, raspberries, strawberries, the consumption rate of Antichrush is 10 ml. for 5 liters of water.

How to deal with Maybug larvae

Just the other day, one of my friends complained that under the potato bushes he found a huge number of hrobaks. These are the larvae of several species of beetle family beetles, whose common name is Khrushchev.

The most dangerous pest of horticultural and vegetable crops from this family is the May bug. Is this really what you think? I think that such a conclusion is not without logic, because a bear lives in our garden (neighbors had pigs, that’s it divorced), but there are no beetle larvae. True, occasionally comes across a potato scoop.

The larvae of this beetle are omnivorous. Populating well-fertilized areas with manure, they severely damage vegetable crops. In addition, the western May beetle in trees can damage not only the roots, but also directly large 2-3-year-old trees.

Beetles winter in the soil at a depth of 25-50 cm (in other sources they write that they live at a depth of a meter or more). They come out of the soil during the flowering period of apricot, cherries, fly in the evening.

Two weeks after the release, the females lay their eggs in the soil to a depth of 20-40 cm, in heaps of 5-20 pieces. Prefer warmed soils with sparse soil cover. The eggs are oval, white, 2x3 mm in size. After 24-25 or 40-50 days, depending on soil temperature, small off-white, six-legged larvae are born.

They live in the soil up to 4 years. In the summer, in search of food, they are able to cover distances of up to 100 m, moving horizontally in the upper soil layer, not more than 20 cm from the ground.

Advice!
The larvae of the first year of life do not do much harm to potatoes, because they feed on humus and thin roots. Larvae of subsequent ages are white, large, C-shaped. The head is brown, with yellow-brown jaws. On the anal segment of the abdomen are 2 rows of 25-30 small conical-shaped bristles.

Larvae of the last age can reach a length of 45-65 mm. And these same larvae are all of us hated pests, because they are voracious to the impossibility - they gnaw potato tubers and other crops. After eating enough, the larvae pupate, and after a month, a maximum of one and a half, young beetles appear from the pupae, which remain to winter.

In potato tubers, larvae of gnarls eat away tissue, leaving rounded or oblong cavities with uneven edges, which creates the conditions for various microorganisms to penetrate into the tuber. Unlike a scoop, they do not leave the remains of a peel on edges of cavities.

In the fight against grubs of larvae, autumn and spring digging of the soil can help. During May and all summer, loosen the ground between the rows of potatoes. At this time, the beetles lay their eggs, the larvae molt and pupate, and when digging and loosening the soil, the eggs are crushed, the conditions of molting and pupation of the larvae are violated, and as a result, they die.

Unfortunately, the control method described above is not very effective - firstly, in a dry summer, the larvae go to a depth of more than half a meter, and secondly, they can simply not be noticed. Therefore, I will tell you further about how to deal with Maybug larvae with folk remedies.

Plant a larva-infected field with perennial lupine. Weeds do not grow on its crops, so the larvae will have to feed on the roots of lupins, which are a natural poison for them. There is another good old way that protects your crop from voracious larvae - a solution of potassium permanganate (5 g per 1 liter of water). Pour it under the bushes of potato seedlings.

A good preventive measure is the processing and cleaning of summer cottages from old stumps and thickets of wild herbs. Uproot old stumps - and you will surely find under them a lot of larvae of the May beetle of different ages. Collect them, destroy or feed the birds.

The fight against larvae will be incomplete if you forget about those who produce them. Therefore, shake the beetles from the trees on the litter in the morning and burn them. In the dark, with the help of light traps, you can catch and destroy a sufficient number of individuals.

Attention!
Hang the bulbs in the summer cottage and set up containers with water under them, add a few drops of kerosene to the water. Beetles fly into the light and fall into the water.

Do not forget about the feathered friends of gardens. For example, starlings feed on adult May beetles and their larvae. Having hung birdhouses in the spring, you will attract singing helpers to your site. By the way, the starling family destroys about 8000 May beetles and larvae during the period of feeding the chicks.

You can try the following method. If you find traces of an uninvited guest in your area, take 200 g of coarse salt and 2 tbsp. tablespoons of ammonia. Stir the contents of the bucket until the salt is completely dissolved and water the beds. During flowering of potatoes, this measure can be used as a preventive measure.

Ordinary chickens are good fighters of the potato front against beetles. Several chickens and a rooster will perfectly cope with the task assigned to them, destroying almost all the larvae of the May beetle.

If you still decide to use chemicals, I’ll tell you a little about the fight against beetle larvae using chemistry. The main thing is to remember that in this case you can only remove and consume products after 20, or even better, after 30 days after the last treatment.

In the garden, immediately after the trees bloom, treat them with permitted insecticides (to destroy beetles): Aktara, Arrivo, Match, Decis, Confidor, Confidor Maxi, Sherpa.

Many recently, to protect potatoes, seedlings of vegetable and flower crops, they are now introducing the drug Prestige before planting. So, it is possible to eliminate the larvae accumulated in the garden and save the damaged strawberries, tomato seedlings, which started to disappear, after processing the holes with Prestige.

Obviously, this drug can be considered the most likely and effective means of combating khrushchami by pouring it into places where the presence of khrushchev is probably established. You can also use the so-called soil preparations: Stormbreaker, Stormbreaker 2, Medvetox U.

Get rid of the voracious larvae

Larvae live quite deep in the ground, and they can be detected only during digging of the soil. Unfortunately, the most effective fight against grubs of larvae is a painstaking manual search for them during digging the soil.

Important!
Of course, you can use special preparations of insecticides - "Antichrush", "Aktara", "Bazudin", etc. So, before planting a young strawberry, its roots are dipped in a 0.5% solution of "Aktara".

In any case, the treatment is carried out before setting the berries. And even better - to completely abandon insecticides, and try to fight this pest with folk methods. After all, any chemical agent harms not only the bugs in the earth, but also the cultures themselves.

Since the beetle does not like nitrogen very much, the fight against it can be waged in a very elegant way: by planting plants that accumulate nitrogen in the soil, absorbing it from the air. For example, plant trees with white clover.

And the larvae of beetles like to eat moles. Therefore, to remove them from the site or to wait - another question.

How to get rid of the may bug? Let's start with the most humane way - scare. It’s better not to fight with khrushch, but not to have it at all on the site. And plants like lupine, elderberry and almost all cruciferous plants - turnip, turnip can scare him away.

By the way, few plants, even weeds, carry the lupine neighborhood. Once on the “lupine” site, the larva, for lack of other nutrition, will be forced to eat the roots of the lupine, and they are poison for the khrushch.

But somehow the garden, completely planted with lupine, seems faint, so the summer residents have to refine themselves and come up with more effective ways to get rid of the cartilage. Traps made of cups or plastic bottles are quite popular: these simple designs are filled with water with kvass or jam, and hung on trees.

Beetles that have fallen into the trap are cleaned and disposed of (especially hens, ducks, geese utilize them very efficiently, but this is another story).

A similar, but larger-scale project to combat the May beetle: take a large container (such as an old basin), lubricate it from the inside with a solid or other adhesive composition, or stick on flies, and put a flashlight in the center. After such a night hunt in the morning you just have to collect the "harvest".

How to save a strawberry from horsetail?

Over the season, the larvae of this pest can cause serious damage to your strawberry beds. What can be done? In the spring, we recommend spilling the beds with a solution of ammonia (ammonia) at a rate of 10-15 ml (sometimes they write about higher concentrations, but it’s better not to risk it - you can easily reap the roots) in 10 liters of water.

Advice!
At the same time, feed strawberries, because ammonia, it is also ammonia, contains nitrogenous compounds that are easily accessible to plants.

Another way to get rid of larvae of the May beetle on strawberries is to treat it with onion husk infusion. To do this, add 100 grams of husk to ten liters of warm water, cover with a lid and insist for three or four days. The resulting solution is again half diluted with water and the bushes are watered under the root.

The mulching of strawberries with shavings will also help get rid of khrushka - the insect does not like its aroma. If you live in an area where there is no shortage of pine needles, you can try this trick: mulch the beds with a thick layer of needles. Through the thorns, the bug will not be easy to get into the ground, and it will leave your garden strawberry alone.

Dung heap - breeding ground for beetles

Dung heaps, compost, is one of the most popular and effective fertilizers, an invaluable source of organic matter. However, in compost and manure, the Khrushchev just loves to live.Therefore, in late autumn or spring, when it is already freezing, heaps need to be shoveled so that the larvae die from the cold. And in the spring, before making compost or half-rotten manure, it is better to sift this fertilizer manually so as not to bring unwanted guests to the garden.

How to get rid of the larvae of the horsetail in the country

It so happened that one of the signs of the arrival of spring is the appearance of May beetles, which in themselves do not do much harm to the crop. Troubles begin during the appearance of leaves on the birch - the time when the female insect begins to lay eggs.

The appearing larvae of the May beetle are capable of destroying plantings of vegetable and berry crops for 3-4 years with enviable regularity due to their powerful jaw. Especially their favorite treat is considered garden strawberries (strawberries), in which they gladly eat the root system.

Over the years, scientists have been looking for the most effective ways to get rid of the larvae of the May beetle. It will be difficult to get rid of this pest, since their soil is located in the deep layers of the soil. However, if you do not destroy on time both the larvae of the May beetle and the adults themselves, then you can remain without a crop and lose the plants themselves.

Preventive actions

Carrying out preventive measures will prevent the secondary infection of the soil by larvae of May beetles. For these purposes, you can use the following recommendations:

  1. Strawberry aisles are recommended to be impregnated with a 75% solution of malathion;
  2. Water the planting of berries with a solution of ammonia (½ tablespoon of alcohol and 10 liters of water);
  3. Mulch the soil periodically.

In order to rid the suburban area of ​​the May beetle larvae, there are many ways and methods, however, the most effective of them is the prevention of their appearance. Compliance with preventive measures will allow you to forget about this unpleasant pest and keep your crop.

Larva Fight

Soil nitrogen increase. Thanks to many years of research, it was found that a high nitrogen content in the soil layers will be especially detrimental to the delayed larvae of the May beetle. As a source of nitrogen, you can choose white clover, which needs to sow the area around garden trees.

Attention!
The principle of influence on the larvae of the May beetle is as follows: special nodule bacteria are formed on the roots of white clover, which absorb nitrogen from the surrounding air and produce protein synthesis.

For this reason, a large concentration of nitrogen forms in the soil and such soil becomes unattractive to the larvae. Sowing the land of the site with white clover allows you to simultaneously solve several problems:

  • Getting rid of Maybug larvae;
  • Improving the quality of fruits growing in the garden;
  • Supply of vegetation with nitrogen;
  • Cleaning the garden of weeds.

Variety of folk methods. Of the variety of ways to get rid of these harmful insects, one of the most effective is the capture of adult May beetles, since one female can lay up to 60-70 eggs. Considering how many larvae can hatch from them, the rationality of using this method is understandable.

The following methods can be used to catch adult insects and get rid of them. The use of a sticky substance, which is usually used for catching flies, gives a good effect.

A small amount of it is applied to newspapers and placed in places of increased accumulation of insects. Beetles stick instantly, so after a few hours you can begin to collect the caught insects.

You can take advantage of light traps, which especially attract pests and allow you to get rid of them in a short time. To catch the May bugs, you can take note of the following method: a small container is selected, the side walls of which are smeared with a sticky liquid.

With the onset of night time, any light source is placed at the bottom of the prepared dishes and the prepared trap is set out in a public place with good viewing, which will quickly attract the May beetle.

Important!
In order to reduce the number of these insects in the country, you can use the representatives of the animal world.

It turns out that the larvae of these insects are a treat for hedgehogs, so when you find a site near the forest, you can whenever possible attract hedgehogs to your dacha. Particularly dangerous for pests are starlings, for which you can build birdhouses on your site.

A good deterrent for the May beetles is an infusion of onion husks, which is used for watering beds with cottages. For its preparation, the 1/3 bucket is filled with onion husks and poured with water. This mixture is infused for 4-5 days, after which they add the same amount of water to it and irrigate it.

One of the obstacles for female May beetles is mulching the soil, and materials such as wood bark, straw or shavings can be used for this. Mulching the soil prevents females from entering the ground to lay eggs.

Chemicals. The use of chemicals to destroy the larvae of May beetles in their suburban area is an extreme measure and it can only be used when safer means of control have not yielded a positive result.

Among the chemicals used to get rid of pests that live in the land, the most effective are the insecticides Zemlin, Pochin, and Aktara. But most gardeners still prefer safer for plants and environmentally friendly means of control.

Biological preparations. One of the representatives of biological action drugs is Nemabact, which allows you to eliminate the pest even at the initial stage of its development. The basis of the drug is a small nematode worm that lives in the ground and the main way of its nutrition is the larvae of harmful insects.

The eradication of the pest occurs by the penetration of the nematode into the larva and it takes 2-3 days to complete this process. Such nematodes pose no threat to either plants, humans, or beneficial living microorganisms.

Effective remedies

The larva of the May beetle is the worst enemy for all gardeners, as one individual can destroy a large number of future crops. It is quite difficult to fight larvae, as they are able to hide deep in the ground, sometimes up to 50 cm.

Advice!
You can rid your garden of these unwanted "guests" by using specially designed insecticides for such purposes. Basically, these are drugs in which the active substance is diazinon or thiamethoxam.

Their activity is translaminar, therefore, after a solution has been applied to the soil, a manifestation of a systemic effect begins, consisting in the loss of appetite in the pest after only one hour. After 24 hours, complete death of the larva, beetle and other insects is noted.

Insecticides of biological origin are also quite effective and have proved themselves to be the best among gardeners. They are based on microscopic worms - nematodes that parasitize on various soil pests, including May larvae.

One feature should be noted so that the effect of the drug is as expected, the product should be purchased only in a specialized store or directly from the manufacturer, since the nematode is a living organism and, if the drug is stored incorrectly, they are prone to death, which will naturally affect the fight against larva.

To ensure the safety of the crop, it is recommended to soak the planting material of root crops, as well as seedlings of vegetables in the solution of the drug "Prestige" or its analogues.The effectiveness of this tool lies in the fact that at all periods of plant development, none of its parts located in the soil are affected by pests in the form of larvae of the May beetle and others.

Organisms of this type have been in the ground for three years until they turn into beetles, so it’s enough to imagine the scale of harm caused by the larva during this period. They can be eliminated with chlorine. To do this, fertilize the soil with potassium chloride and other fertilizers containing chlorine.

With the onset of autumn, when it comes time to dig the soil, you can water it with a small amount of "White", and in the spring, before preparing the beds for planting, chop egg shells and sprinkle the earth.

It is necessary to strive to destroy not only larvae, but also the May beetles themselves. The smaller their number, the naturally fewer larvae will be.

May gluttons

The ubiquitous May bug, if you do not fight it, can cause great damage to the garden. In childhood, on warm spring evenings, we tirelessly chased the May bugs and then joyfully counted trophies. Who has more, the same clever.

Attention!
May beetles are 3-centimeter-long platelets with light brown color, as well as bark beetles “outrageous” in young gardens that damage deciduous and coniferous trees. Their grown larvae up to 6.5 centimeters long have very strong jaws and are able to cut through thick roots even in 6-7 year old trees. They especially love the roots of strawberries.

Beetles and larvae hibernate in the soil. Beetles appear in spring when birch leaves open. They fly in the evening, after sunset, and are very buzzing when flying. By midnight they calm down, quietly sit on branches, sometimes settling in whole garlands, and eating leaves. Under the trees, where a massive “feast” takes place, the land is often dotted with leaf stumps and bug excrement.

However, sometimes May pests "work" in the afternoon, completely exposing the trees. Their favorite “dishes” are leaves of oak, birch, willow, poplar, and from fruit - pears, apple trees, plums and cherries. Beetles damage almost all deciduous species of trees and shrubs, but do not shun pine and larch.

After several days of “gluttony,” the May beetles mate, the females burrow into the ground to a depth of 10-30 centimeters (depending on soil density) and lay from 70 to 130 eggs. They give preference to loose and sandy areas.

After 30-40 days, larvae appear that feed on small roots and humus. May beetle larvae live in soil from 3 to 5 years, already feeding on plant roots. In the fall they leave for wintering in the soil, and in the spring the process continues.

Therefore, before laying the orchard and strawberry plantations, examine the soil, see if there are any dominance of larvae. Digging the soil, select them (they are large and clearly visible) and destroy. If you find strawberry bushes that died from the "intrigues" of the May beetle, dig them and burn them.

For prevention in rows of healthy strawberries, make grooves 30-40 centimeters deep and pour them with 0.75% karbofos solution (10% emulsion concentrate) or 0.1-0.2% Decis.

Most often, May beetles accumulate on plums. Shake them on the litter and burn them. Fruit trees can be sprayed only immediately after flowering. They love light, these noisy pests, willingly fly to light traps (under a light bulb substitute a basin with water, where add a few drops of kerosene).

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