How to get rid of bark beetles in a wooden house before the house crumbles into dust

how to get rid of bark beetles in a wooden house
How to get rid of bark beetles in a wooden house

Good day. Once, a former classmate of Lena asked me to go with her to view a summer cottage.

She had long wanted to buy it for herself. Finally decided. The site itself was about 10 acres with a wooden house of unknown age.

A thorough examination found traces of the activity of the bark beetle in the house. But I have experience in dealing with this pest, and the price of the site was too attractive, so the deal took place. Want to learn how to get rid of bark beetles in a wooden house? Now I will describe in detail the effective methods.

A little about the bark beetle: to know the enemy in person

Bark beetle is an insect belonging to the family of beetles, in other words, a bug. By itself, it is very small, many will not even pay attention, not understanding how much harm such a “bug” can cause.

Important!
Indeed, this is the main parasite that devours wood. Due to the activity of one of the species, the bark beetle-typographer, large hectares of ancient coniferous forests died in the Moscow region. Moreover, this pest does not shun dead wood, draining the walls of houses and outbuildings.

Do you know such a misfortune? Well, we are sure that you are far from the only person who has encountered her. Therefore, we will learn to exterminate the problem at the root (otherwise it will be too late).

So, the bark beetle is a rather small bug, the body length of which almost never exceeds 1 cm. The color is usually inconspicuous brown or black, but in some species it is also brighter. By the way, bark beetles are very close relatives of another group of hard-winged pests - weevils.

There is another interesting feature regarding the eating behavior of the parasite. In European territories, these beetles were much less likely to attack deciduous trees. In our country, they prefer conifers.

Most often - spruce and pine, less often - larch. But this does not mean that if the house, for example, is made of birch, it automatically falls outside the field of view of the pest. It’s just not going to be eaten as fast as a pine one.

Any species of bark beetles is dangerous for living wood: those that feed on the stem mass, and those who devour only roots, and those who prefer needles. But for the home, only the first option is scary. Moreover, not only adult beetles will live in the walls, but also their larvae.

And since almost the entire life of these insects takes place in the thickness of the wood, where they feed and build extensive passages, very soon the house will simply be exuded from the inside.

First signs: recognize enemy penetration

In order to start the fight and conduct it as efficiently as possible, it is necessary to detect the pest at the very beginning of its activity. By themselves, these bugs are very secretive and inconspicuous, you may not pay attention to them. Therefore, it is best to look not for the individuals themselves, but for traces of their parasitic activity.

Advice!
The very first thing that should alert you is the appearance on the floor, especially near the baseboards of the so-called “boring flour”. This is a dry, powdery mass that remains as a result of the life of both adult insects and their larvae.

It is a small pile at the inlets through which bark beetles penetrate into the wood, as well as plaque on the floor and walls. If you see such an alarming symptom, carefully inspect the building. It is possible that the moves themselves will be revealed.

Pay attention to the living trees growing next to the house. If a bark beetle lives in them, then it can be easily detected by digging out a piece of bark. Under it you will see wide voids - pest nesting sites, as well as long narrow passages that it makes while eating.

And by the way, the same characteristic yellow dust can also cover the ground on which affected trees grow. Inspect your site, do you have it?

Listen for the rustling in the house. Beetles lead a secretive lifestyle, and during the day they are almost inaudible. Another thing is night. Bark beetles make moves in the wood and sharpen it, so you can always hear a characteristic noise.

If, nevertheless, the parasite wound up, it is very, very difficult to cope with it. Often even complex efforts do not give the desired result, and you have to give up in this struggle. Prevention is best here, and here's what you need to know about it.

Better to warn than to “heal” a house

If you buy a finished house, be careful in your choice and do not purchase a building that is already affected by the pest. Examine the walls, pay attention to the surface of the wood. Yellow dust, small, sometimes hardly noticeable holes, passages under the bark - all these are very bad signs.

When choosing material for building your own home from scratch, also approach the task with special care. Here's what you need to know:

  1. The wetter the wood, the higher the likelihood that a bark beetle will start in it. The fact is that the beetle eats almost the same juices, and it simply spits out a solid substance (it then becomes that drilling dust). So the drier the raw material, the less likely it is to lose.
  2. If you take wood with bark, the risk increases: on its surface it is very difficult to discern traces of adversity. Therefore, look at the ends: there should be nothing at all like rottenness! And even more so, no furrows and grooves.
  3. In addition, even a new house needs to be processed to minimize the possibility of bark beetles. For this, special solutions are usually used.

Handling Your Home: Fighting Disaster

And yet, even prevention is not able to 100% destroy the infection. Beetles can come, and then you need to start a real war with them. Otherwise, the house will be completely eradicated. What measures should be:

  • The most radical method is to completely heal or even cut down the affected areas.
  • Use only mechanical tools, because from the electric (such as a grinding machine) strong vibration rises, spreading the eggs of beetles throughout the room. All garbage, dust, sawdust must be burned.
  • Thoroughly clean all wall surfaces. Caulk - pull out and destroy. An ordinary vacuum cleaner will do the job of cleaning the walls perfectly.

And then you need to process the wood. And there are already several options:

The simplest is boiling water. But it should be used only if the appearance of the wall does not matter. Brew cool boiling water and scald it with the entire affected surface, trying to get into the moves. You can use drying oil, also hot, but again, if the interior is not important.

Attention!
There are many special solutions on sale that are designed specifically to eradicate the bark beetle in the house. Use them. But here, too, there is a nuance: usually for such treatment 2 means are needed, one of which is an antiseptic, and the other is a flame retardant (fire retardant).They are necessarily applied in separate layers, leaving each to dry for a day.

A mixture of turpentine and kerosene is an excellent exterminator of adult insects, and larvae and eggs. It was also used by our ancestors. We mix in a ratio of 3: 1 (turpentine and kerosene, respectively) and inject a “treat” directly into the bugs through a syringe.

After sanitization, it is necessary to solve another problem - to plug all steps and exits to the pest. For this, sealants are used. For external lesions, those based on silicone are suitable, and for internal lesions, acrylic ones.

Remember that when buying or building a wooden house yourself, you should be prepared to carefully monitor it and take care of it throughout your stay. One-time measure will not solve anything. The bark beetle may return. Therefore, do not be irresponsible to prevention, inspect the walls and respond in a timely manner to any alarming symptom.

Effective Wood Pest Management Methods

The very name “wood-beetle bug” is, so to speak, the “folk” name of many (several hundred) different wood pests. They differ not only in size (from 2-3 millimeters to 6-7 centimeters in length), appearance, habitat, but also in development cycles.

But they have one thing in common: they feed on wood. Because of this, the habitat of bark beetles is the house, log house and other wooden buildings or structures.

As already noted, many people who have encountered this problem have used a variety of ways to deal with beetles and various methods of processing from beetles.

All of the following technologies, right down to the most “exotic,” were actually tested not only in Russia, but also abroad. So, that the bark beetle has already experienced on itself - means of struggle and methods of protection:

  • specialized protective coatings.
  • specialized protective impregnations.
  • “Grandfathering” methods - coating / impregnation by working off (waste machine oil), varnish in several layers, kerosene, diesel fuel, hot oils and even acids.
  • extrusion of holes with various compositions of the above materials.
  • drilling holes, guided by a phonendoscope or simply by sound and, again, a repetition of the already mentioned extrusion.
  • carrying out disinsection measures (treatments) on their own or with the involvement of specialized organizations using various insecticidal preparations and methods for their use - from simply wet aerosol treatment to the use of hot or cold fog generators.
  • the use of various pyrotechnic means - sulfuric and insecticidal checkers, regular (for a long time) burning of a large number of spiral fumigators such as "Raptor", "Fumitox", etc.
  • regular (over a long period) use of a large number of electric fumigators such as "Raptor", "Fumitox", etc.
  • warming up.
  • freezing.
  • various attempts to use electromagnetic waves and microwave emitters.
  • removal (removal from the structure) of damaged material.
  • pheromone traps.

However, with very few exceptions, the effectiveness of the above methods, although there is, is extremely low. After these procedures, the bark beetle still remains in the house, and the means of control do not give a result. Beetles die, and not only they, but also other representatives of the insect family, which is also good.

Important!
However, the “crunch” remains (or resumes, after some time), the wood dust dust is poured again, the beetles reappear, and everything repeats again. As a result, the fight with the bugs is lost again, the circle is closed.

Facts are a stubborn thing, and they are as follows. It is impossible to destroy this enemy once and for all in an already damaged house, using all kinds of methods of spraying, fumigating, smearing, soaking, etc. methods, processing the SURFACE is impossible. There are several reasons for this.

The pest lives in the depths of wood. Wood is a porous material, therefore, any liquid products, especially water-based ones, soaking into the top layer, do not penetrate to the required depth.

Attempts to inject chemicals into the tree through holes made by the pest (extrusion) are also unsuccessful: the moves can be long, winding and not visible to the eye. To get rid of the bark beetle by the methods of struggle of this kind is a waste of time.

Drilling holes focusing on the crunch (even with a phonendoscope) and injecting drugs again with a needle is an ungrateful task for the same reasons. In addition, holes will appear, which then will have to be masked decoratively in some way.

By the way, recently, a number of organizations have appeared that offer this particular method - to drill long (up to 30 cm) holes with a diameter of 3-5 mm at an angle and with an approximate pitch of 0.5 meters (options with different numbers are possible).

At the same time, the so-called hormonal preparations are introduced into the wood. So, these drugs have their own separate name - growth regulators, inhibitors of chitin synthesis.

The principle of operation is very simple: any insect in the process of its development goes through several stages - a larva, pupa, adult (adult). The drug blocks the development phases of these stages, stops the growth and the formation of chitin (the external skeleton, wings, etc. are made of it).

Advice!
In other words, insects cease their development into a full-fledged individual, but they do not always die. As a result, we have some unpredictable forms of insects, pupae, or larvae, and in scientific terms, various types of mutations.

Of course, mutated insects in nature almost always die, because they are poorly adapted for their natural life or become sterile - incapable of reproduction. Theoretically, this should save from the bark beetle a way to fight such a plan.

But it all depends on the degree of fluidity of the drug, and, accordingly, on where, in what quantity and how quickly this chemical will penetrate. And also on how long it retains its properties (according to the assurances of some manufacturers - about ten years).

And here another aspect appears - hormonal drugs ... chitin .. which they break down.

For reference: chitin belongs to the group of polysaccharides (in all organisms that produce and use chitin, it is not in its pure form, but in combination with other polysaccharides, and is very often associated with proteins), its closest “relative” in the human body is kerotin . In humans, he is responsible for the formation of hair, nails, eyelashes ...

The warranty period for the drug used is about ten years (i.e. it is active for ten years) - at this stage it becomes somehow uncomfortable! Is it really necessary for the walls of the house to be saturated with hormones (after all, it is necessary to soak the tree as much as possible), and even have been active for ten years?

We consider it necessary to immediately clarify that all of the above in relation to hormonal agents for controlling wood pests is not considered by us as one or another type of anti-advertisement.

There is another reason why it is difficult to get rid of the bark beetle by the control methods from the list of those named. All liquids that kill insects, whether insecticides or biological products, are 1-3 months active when applied to the surface. And 3 months is in the best case, despite the assurances of the manufacturers.

Attention!
Moreover, insecticides, in particular, work well against already winged ones, i.e. adults. We are primarily interested in the larvae and pupae of the pest. And they are very well protected by the fat body from any impact (except mechanical, of course).

Now we will combine all this, and it turns out that using the above tools and methods to achieve a qualitative result is practically impossible.A more or less noticeable result will be if all this is repeated several times during the season - at least 3-4 times, trying to get into the period when the pupa has already become an adult, but has not yet had time to lay off the larvae.

But imagine what a smell will be in a wooden house after all these measures (by the way, a tree absorbs smells very long time - up to 1.5 years) and this is very unlikely that the problem is solved. About the costly part - money, time, materials, etc. It’s better not to even think about it. It will be a VERY expensive pleasure, with a VERY dubious quality.

Fighting bugs with the help of low temperatures - freezing - will not do him any harm. Almost all types of wood borers easily tolerate low negative temperatures.

Given its location in the depths of the wood, it is not difficult to understand that it is simply unrealistic to freeze the wood from which the log house or house, and even the entire depth of the material is built.

But if we assume that this nevertheless succeeded (for example, using a liquid nitrogen tank - we quietly keep quiet about the environment), the structure itself will have to be overhauled after such events - modern building materials, and even more so finishing materials for such conditions, are not intended.

Now consider the opposite method - high temperature. Warming the wood to the entire depth not less than up to t +65 0C (higher) and maintaining this state for at least 30 minutes ensures complete destruction of the pest (something like chamber drying). The method is based on the fact that under these temperature conditions, protein breakdown / destruction occurs, i.e. death of the pest larva.

It is simply unrealistic to destroy a bark beetle by means of the struggle of this type in a house, log house or summer house. But for small, compact structures (for example, furniture and its elements or individual volumes of wood) it is technically quite possible.

Important!
As mentioned above, for these purposes, closed-type drying chambers are used, but not any, but only temperature chambers (there are also vacuum chambers - these will not work, because another physical principle is applied).

The most important thing here is the uniform heating of the material from all sides to a given constant temperature for a certain time. Attempts to use heat guns are also doomed to failure: there is an uneven, one-sided heating, and only the surface layer.

By the way, not so long ago a method of heating wood with high-frequency electromagnetic waves appeared. If you "translate" this into a simpler language, the principle of a microwave oven is used. On the Internet, it is easy to find photos and even videos of how it works.

By and large, it’s just a microwave oven without a front panel, which, with the open part (where the door / front panel is removed), is leaned / laid on an interesting section of a bar, log, board and acts on this area, heating it, thereby just sintering the larvae pest.

It is very similar to chamber drying - the same distribution of heat from the surface inside the object, only heating occurs due to the vibration of the molecules against each other.

This method is not without drawbacks. Spot and uneven heating in small sections (sections are limited by the size of the working surface of the device). Thus, to destroy the pest or its larvae, it is necessary to know their exact location in the wood mass, and this is already problematic.

Given their ability to move (albeit not high, but still present), their number, fragmentation, etc., this is doubly problematic.

Dry wood heats up for a much longer time (wood generally has low thermal conductivity, and dry wood is even less so), underheating will not give the desired result, and overheating can lead to charring of the surface and fire.

Advice!
It is necessary to take into account the distribution of heat depending on the thickness of the material: on the surface the temperature will be several times higher than in depth, which again is fraught with the possibility of fire.

It is necessary to ensure the complete absence of metal objects in the way of the penetration of waves, if you are going to destroy the bark beetle in the way of electromagnetic type control. (By analogy with a microwave oven: what will happen if you place any metal object in it or something with a metal coating? Answer: it sparkles, then it closes and can catch fire.

Electromagnetic waves do not pass through metal objects, but are reflected from them. And during construction, a lot of metal is used - fasteners, metallized films, nets, amplifiers - you will not remember everything, and even more so you will not remember where and how exactly they are located).

The time factor for trying to process the whole house in this way. For warming up the “hundredths” of a beam (100 mm or 10 cm thick), at least 5-7 minutes are required. The heating area will be slightly larger than the working area of ​​the device, and the fact that “more” the area is solely due to the properties of the thermal conductivity of the material (note, very low).

There are no industrial devices for the purpose we need. All of them are, to one degree or another, handicraft-converted household microwave ovens. We multiply the height of the chamber of an average household microwave oven by about 0.3 meters by an approximate length of 0.4 meters - we get 0.12 sq.m. - heating sector.

You can, of course, round to 0.1 sq.m. - the heating is uneven, and the bark beetle will not be happy with this type of struggle, but we will not do this ... until we do. Now let's calculate the total surface area of ​​the walls of one of the most common types of log houses: size 6x8 meters, height 3 meters, not five walls - we get 84 sq.m., the surface on one side.

We divide the resulting area into the heating sector at a time (0.12 sq.m.), we get 700 conditional heating cycles for 5-7 minutes. We consider further. 700 cycles of 5-7 minutes, this is 3500-4900 minutes or 58-82 hours of continuous heating ... in pieces.

Now remember that:

  1. “Adapt” must be rearranged (slightly overlapping sectors) and preferably close to the surface, without gaps, which slightly increases the time of one warm-up cycle (with a log it is more difficult - round shape).
  2. log or lumber cuts with a wall thickness of 100 mm. without external or internal warming for the climate of Russia, to put it mildly, are exotic. If from a bar, then at least 150-200 mm., And log - not less than 230-250 mm. Thus, either the material must be heated from two sides (preferably at the same time), or the heating time increases by 2.5-3 times.
  3. there are internal walls / partitions, floors, roofing.

To summarize: in order for the bark beetle to disappear, the method of controlling with the help of heat is very doubtful. Full-scale processing of the finished log house (home) of standard or close sizes to them, without interior decoration, insulation, floors and roofing, taking into account all of the above, plus any rounding, errors, etc., will require approximately 150-250 hours of continuous operation, without rest for the person and the device . Question: who can’t stand it first?

Attention!
It makes sense to use this method with minimal damage, locally, subject to a more or less accurately known location of the pest or its larvae. But even in this case, there is no absolute guarantee.

You can remove the affected material or part of it. This method justifies itself if:

  • the affected material is removed without compromising the structural properties
  • the lesion site is known and localized
  • there is a firm belief that the lesion did not spread to other parts of the structure
  • the removal of the affected area is technically feasible
  • the cost of removing and restoring a part of the structure affected by the pest is less than the cost of such treatment from the bark beetle and other control methods.

There is another method - the so-called processing of beetles using pheromone traps.It is relevant for capture and subsequent destruction of the pest in the forests. But in relation to various kinds of buildings, such treatment from beetles is undesirable.

Pheromones are biologically active substances secreted by insects to attract individuals of their species. In pheromone traps, pheromones synthesized in the laboratory are used as bait for insect pests. Thus, first of all, it is necessary to find out exactly which species, or rather subspecies, of the pest has settled in the wood of a house or a log house.

In principle, albeit with slight difficulties, but it is quite possible. The main thing is to determine ownership precisely, since in nature each subspecies has its own pheromones, and then there is a chance to destroy the bark beetle by the way of fighting on pheromones.

Then it will be necessary to order the manufacture of traps with the corresponding pheromone. Here everything is more complicated. Because, the enterprises producing them (it would be more correct to say “laboratories”), the unit and price tag can be completely inhumane.

And now the fun begins:

  • pheromones attract adult individuals (adults) and do not attract larvae, which it is just necessary to fight with in the first place
  • if pheromones attract these same imagos, what prevents them from attracting from a nearby grove or forest, thereby greatly increasing the infection rate of an already damaged structure?

In general, in the fight against bark beetles, it is better not to use methods of this type of control.

However, there is another way. The method that our organization has been using since 2003, which was developed and tested by the specialists of our enterprise and which really works with a 100% guaranteed result. This is FUMIGATION at home (fumigation of a log house or fumigation of a summer residence) using FOSFIN gas.

Important!
A more correct name is fumigation of wood, or rather, fumigation of wood from which the house is built. This technology can be applied in any building (wooden, stone, panel board, etc.) where there is a problem of a woodworker defeating wooden structures, including single ones (beams, rafters, frame, and other elements).

If there is a bark beetle in the house, the methods of controlling phosphine will destroy it regardless of how and how the structures are closed, as well as in the whole structure (statistics of the method).

Bark beetles in a wooden house - how to get rid

In Europe, the group of bark beetles has about 150 species, and on the whole planet their species diversity exceeds seven hundred.

If in the European part the smallest representatives do not exceed one millimeter in length, then the length of large bark beetles reaches eight millimeters, and one and a half centimeter beetles of this group also live in the tropics.

What does a bark beetle look like?

The bark beetle's paws are thin, without a hairy and spongy sole. The head is small. The forehead is concave or flat, with a longitudinal depression.

The eyes are set deep, oval or round. The paws are often covered with stiff hairs. Larva without legs, distinguished by white color, with present yellowness. Thanks to a huge number of special pillows, she moves.

Abdomen of pupa, almost completely covered with wings; while the lower ones protrude strongly. Mostly bark beetles live under the bark, and only occasionally settle directly in the wood itself or bark.

There are species that settle in herbaceous plants, in their stems. Some bark beetles can inhabit both the seeds and the fruits of tree species.

Destruction in a wooden house

Do not discount the fact that a whole army of various insects can have a detrimental effect on a house or other wooden structure. The result can be no less pitiable than the effects of mold (fungus).

If a fire in the human sense can be put in the first place, with respect to damage to wooden buildings, forests, then the destructive consequences of the invasion of bark beetles - precisely in the second.

Advice!
In fact, everything is extremely simple: beetles make many moves in the wood, causing a decrease in its density. This violates its integral structure, which in turn leads to the destruction of a wooden structure.

The process is very fast: a few months (in extreme cases - years) are enough for the house to become unusable.

How to protect your home

It is best to start the fight against insects on the eve of construction work. After all, the bark beetle may already be in building materials.

They need to be checked for defeat. The presence of beetles will be evidenced by small holes, oval in shape, next to which you can almost always see sawdust flour.

If the sawdust is white, then the beetle settled in the wood, and if it is orange, with a yellowish tint, it is in the bark. Such materials should be discarded immediately. Pillars and logs are sanded, and the bark is burned.

Wood (blanks) is impregnated with special preparations:

  • Antişaşelin.
  • Empire 20.
  • Senej.
  • Wood healer.
  • Akvateks.
  • Antizhuk and others ...

And for the processing of wooden materials that will be on the outside of the house, machine oil (used) is perfect.

Still, insects can enter the already built wooden house from neighboring trees.

Attention!
If you notice a small number of holes made by a bug, they need to be injected with drugs using a syringe, and the holes should be covered with a result. And, accordingly, all wooden elements of the house should be treated with antiseptic agents.

The degree of damage can be checked with a knife, a screwdriver: a deep penetration into a tree of a sharp object will indicate a significant defeat. Then the affected part is removed and burned. The cleaned place and the new wood element are carefully crafted.

It is advisable if your own efforts to remove the beetle were unsuccessful, seek the help of professionals. At the proper level, disinsection from the bark beetle will save you from many troubles.

It is clear that the methods and drugs used are harmful only to insects, and human health, as well as a wooden building, are not harmful.

How to destroy a bark beetle in a wooden dwelling

Bark beetles in a wooden house are a serious problem for wood. They can lead to significant damage, accompanied by full or partial repair, which, in turn, will result in significant cash costs.

How to fight

It is known that the bark beetle in the tree can be caused by an excess of moisture. Actually, therefore, the first thing in the fight against bark beetle, it will be necessary to dry the work surface.

In the future, using visual inspection, you need to determine the degree of damage to the wood. Namely, estimate the number of holes drilled by the bark beetle itself. If the number of holes is in excess, then, most likely, there is no sense in treating.

It is required to disassemble the house and cut the infected area of ​​wood. If there are not so many holes, the density of the tree is at the proper level (you can check with an ordinary knife or a screwdriver), then this area of ​​the lesion should be treated.

For processing, the first step is to clean the work surface from dirt, drank and small building debris. Special clothing should be prepared in advance, since the future consistency of toxic substances may be dangerous not only for the eyes, but also for the skin of the open parts of the body. Use a respirator.

In order to find an effective means of fighting bugs, you need to turn to the story where our fathers used linseed oil to protect log cabins from insects. Accordingly, you can try to look for a natural product for sale in the modern construction market.

If this does not turn out to be on sale, you can try using oil-containing products, for example, drying oil, which not only dries quickly, creating a protective layer, but also has a number of additional properties that help prevent decay.

Important!
Note that many craftsmen recommend using the method of cold or hot smoke. In principle, also effective. This method is usually used for processing gardens. The only negative of this method is that it does not have 100% success, since many insects do not die, but simply hide in the tree crowns.

Many experts consider the impregnation of Neomid 100 Antizhuk as the best remedy for bark beetle bugs. This impregnation with a guarantee helps get rid of harmful bugs and other insects - pests.

Means of wood protection brand "Neomid" provide greater efficiency when they process the wood of wooden log houses and log cabins from timber.

The range of Neomid protective equipment includes a variety of compositions that help the owner of a wooden house reliably protect the log house structure from various pests - fungi, insects, topographic beetles (bark beetles).

If you notice pest beetles in your wooden house made of timber or logs, then the best option would be to treat the entire wooden surface of the log house and sawn timber with impregnation against the beetles - Neomid 100, with subsequent painting of the log wood inside and out, with a protective decorative composition Neomid Biocolor Ultra.

This technology will allow a double blow against bark beetles. The fact is that Neomid Biocolor Ultra contains additional biocides in its composition, which allow to get rid of pest beetles with a guarantee.

How to get rid of bark beetle in a wooden house: available methods

A wooden house, like any other building made of natural materials, is especially vulnerable to the effects of biological threats. Moreover, even just one small beetle, capable of increasing its population in the shortest possible time, can cause many troubles and even lead to the collapse of the structural elements of the building.

Finding the answer to the question: how to get rid of the bark beetle can lead to very interesting results, if you pay attention to the fact that this pest can live on living trees.

Advice!
Here, gardeners and gardeners are very successful in the fight, finding ways to drive the persistent parasite from their chosen habitat.

What is the danger of a bark beetle pest for planting and a house that stands on an infected site? This question is best answered by forestry experts, whose possessions in the suburbs have been raging for several years in a bark beetle typograph, which literally completely destroys coniferous forests.

This pest, like it collects itself, is incredibly voracious and almost elusive at the larval stage.

Feedback: We have coped with the bark beetle for the season. A plot near the forest itself, even a part of the trees had to be sacrificed so that the infection would not spread. They were extruded with solutions, the openings were covered with garden varieties, and the entire garden was sprayed three times a season. As a result, the apple trees are much prettier by the fall, no traces of the beetle are visible. Fortunately, the parasite didn’t get to the house, otherwise I’m not sure that they could handle it themselves.

Bark beetle in the garden: how to recognize?

The search for means and methods of destroying a gluttonous beetle usually begins with determining the localization of places of its activity. Most often, the pest affects young trees, as well as weakened or diseased plants.

In this case, the adult individual gnaws a hole in the cortex and lays eggs, from which larvae appear after some time.

After birth, they begin to actively devour the pulp of wood, literally destroying it from the inside of the trunk. The insect larvae are especially active on apple trees, and it is better to fight their appearance at an early stage, while there is still a chance to cope with the problem without destroying the tree.

Among the obvious signs of infection include:

  • the appearance on the tree trunk of round holes of the correct form;
  • the formation of traces of “flour” on the surface of the bark and at the foot of the tree;
  • the flow of resin from the holes (indicates the imminent appearance of larvae);
  • descent of the bark from the trunk - observed if the tree has already died.

How to protect a garden from a pest?

Before you get rid of the bark beetle, you have to understand: this little bug can really do a lot of trouble. And preventive measures to protect the garden from his visits also require an integrated approach.

In particular, seasonal cleaning of fallen branches should not be neglected, leaving rotten stumps, diseased or rotten trees. If the tree has already died, but bark beetles are present in it, experts of the pest control services recommend to act as follows.

Attention!
Completely remove the bark, revealing the surface of the trunk, then you need to get to the bark beetle moves and destroy it with the help of special chemicals or mechanically.

It is important to note that an extremely integrated approach helps to reduce the risks of a pest. In particular, it is necessary to regularly cut dry branches, to provide watering and fertilizing plants.

And once or twice in the season of the highest pest activity - from July to August, a comprehensive spraying of plants with chemicals aimed at repelling and killing the pest should be carried out.

What to do?

You do not know how to get rid of the bark beetle, which decided to arrange its "headquarters" in the house? First of all, you should make sure that you have to fight with this representative of the insect order.

During the period of their activity, larvae are characterized by the reproduction of a certain sound with which they bite into the wood. Of course, it will not be difficult to recognize him if the house is quiet.

It is worth adding that the life cycle of a larva from an egg to an adult beetle is up to four years. During this time, one pest eats up to 20 cm of wood. But in the process of turning into beetles, the pests mate again, increasing the number of colonies. As a result, only one family that has chosen a house can turn it into a kind of piece of cheese after a couple of years.

If we are talking about preventive protection, it is better to treat the walls of the structure from the very beginning with means that protect the wood from insects. In addition to the protective properties, such preparations often also have the properties of stains and make it possible to tint the surface in any colors and shades.

We protect the house from the pest

So that bark beetles do not find your home too attractive, it is worth carefully monitoring the level of humidity - beetles prefer when it is high enough. Another risk factor is the poor state of the building. Rotten sections, leaking pipes, construction of a building made of used material can adversely affect the general condition of the building, making it more vulnerable to the enemy.

Important!
The first thing to do: explore the house. If the pest has left multiple traces in the form of holes in the walls, you just need to cut and burn the most affected elements, replacing them with new ones.

If you have chosen the option of using insecticides (solutions like BI-58, NEOMID Stop Beetle), you should carefully follow the manufacturer's recommendations, use protective clothing, gloves, respirators. For local processing by impregnation or pouring the solution into the holes, use the "Antishavelin" in solution or "Clipper".

How do professionals work?

Unlike household garden sprayers used by summer residents, specialists have at their disposal special technical means - fog generators that can provide an intensive effect on bark beetles at any stage of their development. And you do not have to move the furniture, disassemble the wall department. Fumigation will allow you to get to the pest wherever it is hiding.

Feedback: They encountered a bark beetle in a country house. At first, rustles did not cause trouble.And then the husband began to hang a shelf, and the wall was literally covered in holes. They began to examine carefully, they realized that we ourselves could not cope - in a number of moves the bug made that it was too late to cut into pieces. I had to call specialists. And then re-processing was needed to finish off all.

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