How to get rid of ants in a greenhouse and why should it be done?

Good day. At first, there were a lot of difficulties with the greenhouse on my site.

They were associated not with the construction of the structure itself, but with the care of the plants in it. The first days I almost sat inside without a couch.

The very first "guests" of the greenhouse were ants. They appeared suddenly, but began to make their moves very actively. Thanks to my vigilance, they were able to be detected and neutralized in time. Want to learn how to get rid of ants in a greenhouse? Now I will share with you effective ways.

How to get rid of ants in a greenhouse: the best modern and "grandfather" methods

Basically, ants are even considered beneficial insects, as destroy different larvae, ticks, eggs of butterflies and scoop. A small number of ants is good because these "orderlies" loosen the top layer of the soil, saturate it with minerals and humus, and its quality and structure are significantly improved.

They also breed aphids, like to bring weed seeds and, finally, bites of garden ants are quite painful and can even provoke a severe allergic reaction. Therefore, if such a horde has attacked your greenhouse, act immediately.

Where did they come from?

If ants appeared in the greenhouse, there may be three reasons:

First of all, deal with the fact that the enemy still wandered into your greenhouse. So, in Russia, these types of ants are most often found:

If your site is not far from the forest, expect red insects to visit, but they usually bypass the greenhouse. But the closed warm soil is more attractive to black garden ants, who brazenly build their nests directly on the beds.

But if you meet one of these comrades, act very carefully.

"Grandfather" methods, time-tested

You can also work with ants using the wedge-wedge method. If you cannot drive out black ants, you can scare them with the help of large red ones. Red forest ants like to smash black’s nests and steal eggs from there.

If it so happened that your plot with the greenhouse is located just near the forest belt, then just find forest orderlies in it, take some land from the anthill and make such a path to the greenhouse.

There are also less risky "grandfather" methods of reprisal with ants. The most effective is boric acid:

And such methods:

We collect 10 liters of water in a container, pour two glasses of vegetable oil and the cheapest shampoo, add a bottle of vinegar and mix well. In the place of the largest accumulation of insects we pierce a hole with a peg and pour this mixture there with a spray gun. Immediately close the film for three days.

If you have the patience, you can lure ants into a jar with the remains of jam. A lot of comrades will gather there in one call, although far from the whole colony, of course. But a couple of times it is worth making - the number of pests will become smaller while you are looking for the main effective method of control.

Another grandfather's method is a mixture of brewer's yeast with honey. Small sweet teeth will be full, and the remnants of the survivors will be removed.

And here's how to cook meat bait for ants: mix 2 tablespoons of minced meat with 0.5 tsp. boric acid. Divide this mixture into many small balls and arrange them along visible ant paths. It is only important that one of the pets does not accidentally eat this poison, and therefore always close the door to the greenhouse these days.

Still ants do not like certain smells. Therefore, lay out the remains of coffee grounds, cinnamon, mint, elderberry and tansy leaves, and chopped arrows of garlic for them in greenhouse beds.

In the fight against ants, mechanical methods are also important. Try to constantly loosen the soil in which there are insects.

Finished gels, traps and sprays

So, if folk methods do not help, try modern remedies. There are special insecticides on sale, which are available in the form of gels, pastes and powders. But use them with caution in greenhouses, after all, this is covered ground.

The most popular remedy is Absolute Gel. It represents a box in which there is a syringe with the means collected into it. Drop a few drops on the anthill so that the ants, having tasted it, take this treat to the female. As soon as it is full of poison, it will die, and with it the anthill.

The usual crayon "Mashenka", which is designed to fight cockroaches, will also help drive the ants out. Just lay the wooden planks on the floor of the greenhouse, and draw stripes on them. Poison will stick to the paws of ants, and they will bring it to the anthill.

You can also use a stronger insect repellent - there are a lot of those that are on sale now. Open the ampoule, mix the contents with water, and pour the solution a little into all the input holes of the ants, and then cover it all with a film.

If you use the gel "Great Warrior", then you will see how ants flock to run away to eat it - like a buffet. But literally in a week, the pests will disappear completely.

Interestingly, many special anti-ants that show themselves well at home are completely useless when fighting in the ground. And some of them are also toxic to plants if they enter the soil.

There is also such a method - to spray the place where these insects gather most of all, "Anteater."But this only applies specifically to the place itself, and on a global scale, uninvited guests cannot do this.

But remember that none of the methods can give a 100% guarantee - this issue can only be approached comprehensively.

Deprive ants of their "farm"

Ants build entire colonies of aphids and protect them, which is their greatest harm. Yes, aphid itself can start in a greenhouse - and without ants. But, if they were the first guests, then soon you will see how these small workers themselves carry aphids on your plants, plant it there, and then visit it periodically.

Aphid aphids are “dairy cows” of their kind. The thing is that they need sugar for life, and therefore hardworking ants create entire "aphids" on your plants, and then go to milk them.

By the way, aphids can be quickly eliminated by the usual spraying with popular Pepsi or Cola drinks. There is no need to dilute anything, just type into the atomizer. During the subsequent watering with water, the aphids will easily wash off from the leaves, and ants will leave offended after it.

Get rid of the aphids immediately - at least mechanically remove the infected leaves and treat the plants with this solution: 2 tsp. liquid soap in 2 cups of water. Still from aphids will help you get rid of the infusion of garlic and tobacco.

Queen hunt

But why does it often happen that after a serious chemical treatment the ants disappear for a while and then reappear? The fact is that any pesticides kill only adult insects, while the female continues to actively give offspring.

The Queen is always hiding in the depths of the galleries, you can’t find her manually. Therefore, scientists today have developed a more cunning and sophisticated method: to make sure that the ants themselves attribute the poison to their uterus. If she dies, the anthill will also creep.

If the poison that you left to the ants acts quickly, they will never carry it to their uterus. But if the action is weak, inconspicuous, such a delicacy will be delivered to the queen, and over time it will kill her.

To prepare such a bait, make an ordinary sweet 1% solution of boric acid, soak cotton wool in it and throw it in a jar. Cover it so that ants can get in there.

Those will bite off pieces of cotton and carry her uterus with drones. Every two weeks, renew the contents of the can, gradually reducing the concentration of the solution to 0.5%. In an month and a half, the anthill will be completely destroyed.

When boric acid gets inside the insect, it first causes severe itching, and then finishes off. On such paths you can additionally pour the poison “Bazudina”, which comes in granules similar to pupae. Ants themselves bring him into their home.

Get rid of the anthill

If the anthill is right in the greenhouse, clean it immediately. There are many methods.

Pour homemade compounds. There are two ways to fill the anthill:

1. With the first frosts, remove the top layer of the anthill with a shovel and give it water under pressure.
2. In summer, fill the anthill with molasses and water with jam. This will immediately provoke the growth of soil yeast, and they, in turn, will destroy the stocks of ants for the winter. From such places, these intelligent insects usually retreat.

If the ants settled on the beds in the greenhouse before planting the seedlings, do this:

• Step 1. Prepare two buckets of boiling water.
• Step 2. On one bayonet of a shovel, dig an anthill.
• Step 3. Pour boiling water and leave the greenhouse, leaving the door open.

It is not the ants who die from the boiling water - their laid eggs. In this case, the insects grab what has survived and leave.

Ant nests are also watered with sunflower oil, if you do not mind it. Vegetable oil is even easier to use: fry pies, and pour the darkened hot residue of oil into minks.

You can get rid of the anthill in this way: pour millet directly on it. Ants take it for eggs and actively drag it into their house. Next, just pour this “house" with water, millet will quickly swell and block all entrances and exits.

And it will smell bad for ants. And dissatisfied insects will soon move from such beds to another place.

Another simple method: open the found nest and sprinkle with tobacco dust or fluffy lime.

We scare away a strong odor. You can drive ants away by smell: just put a piece of herring next to the anthill.

Weeds will help in this matter. You can use wormwood like this: take 400 g of fresh wormwood or 40 g of dry wormwood, pour boiling water over it. Let the grass infuse in 10 liters of cold water for 24 hours, strain, and then spray the anthill and the entire surrounding area from the sprayer.

We dare from the greenhouse once and for all

Please note: if you break the arrows on the garlic and put them side by side, the ants will bypass that hill. Therefore, experienced summer residents have already come up with a reliable way to protect the greenhouse from uninvited guests forever: weave thin bundles of garlic arrows and tie them around the foundation of the greenhouse.

Still ants really do not like the smell of sunflower oil, wild mint, wormwood and elderberry leaves. Having laid out a couple of branches with leaves in the greenhouse on time, you will quickly get rid of accidentally visiting uninvited guests. Also, ants do not like ground cinnamon.

Ants, after settling in the selected territory, primarily destroy all their competitors: spider mites, whiteflies and the like.

And therefore, if you are constantly and unsuccessfully fighting this scourge, let the new "tenants" deal with the old ones, and then thanklessly drive out most of these.

Expert Advice

Since school time, most of us remember the important role and benefits of ants in nature, but gardeners and gardeners are convinced from our own experience that they do not always bring benefits. These insects live not only in forests and parks, but also in garden areas, in gardens and greenhouses.

Before we “tackle” the issue of how to remove ants from the greenhouse, let's look at what types of ants are trying to “capture” this territory, as well as what benefits or harm they do to plants planted in a greenhouse or greenhouse.

What insects live in greenhouses?

The following three species of ants are most often found on garden plots: red forest, black garden and brown meadow ants. In gardens located in or near forests, the most common are red, the so-called "forest" ants.

Among other things, this type of insect builds its nests directly in vegetable beds, and in the process of laying moves, the length of which can reach several meters, the root system of plants is destroyed, which greatly damages plantings.

If during time you do not take measures and do not limit and substantially reduce the population of ants, then soon the entire greenhouse will be a loosened surface with many mounds and holes populated only by these insects.

Benefit or harm

Thus, if ants are wound up in the greenhouse, then before you start a fight with them, you need to weigh all the pros and cons of the presence of these insects in the greenhouse or greenhouse.

So, the pros:

Cons of the presence of ant colonies in greenhouses:

If, after analyzing all the pros and cons of the presence of ants in the greenhouse, or in the greenhouse, you came to the conclusion that you need to get rid of them, you need to consider what methods will be used to combat the ants in the greenhouse.

What to do

There are many methods that can help if ants are wound up in the greenhouse. The effectiveness of these methods is different, but of them, each gardener can choose the most suitable for his garden.

All these methods can be divided into several groups:

• Physical.
• Chemical.
• Combined.
• Industrial pesticides.

Let us consider in more detail each of these methods.

Physical. First of all, it is necessary to find places that ant families have “chosen” for themselves. These insects love to settle under old boards, slate or ruberoid sheets lying on the ground, as well as in the wooden structures of the greenhouses and greenhouses themselves, especially if the wood is old and rotten.

Before planting plants in the greenhouse, you can shed the entire soil with an aqueous solution of soda and linseed oil (5 g of soda and 30 g of linseed oil are taken per 1 liter of water), which will force the ants to leave the greenhouse.

If you are willing to spend time and energy digging in your own greenhouse, you can dig out a nest of ants and find a uterus. By destroying it, you will destroy the entire ant settlement.

Deep digging of the soil in the greenhouse in autumn and spring, as well as frequent loosening of the soil in the summer months and regular sprinkling of found anthills and ant passages with ash, baking soda or quicklime, will lead the ant colony to leave the territory of the greenhouse.

Chemical. First of all, this group of methods should include various poisoned baits. To create such a bait, one fourth of a teaspoon of boric acid (sold at the pharmacy), 3-4 teaspoons of sugar and a couple of teaspoons of fermented or sugared jam or honey should be mixed in a glass of water.

Such a bait should be set in shallow containers and in places where ants can climb, but kids and pets do not.The bait should be exposed daily for a month.

Safer means of combating ants are harsh and unpleasant odors that can drive insects out. Ants do not like the smells of elderberry, mint, wormwood, garlic, anise, mustard and bay leaf.

Our great-grandmothers and grandmothers knew and actively used how to destroy ants in a greenhouse through smells: several (2-4) cloves of garlic grown in open ground, they were chopped in a container and poured with cold water. The resulting mixture was insisted in a bucket for about a day, after which the anthill was watered with it.

At the bottom of such dishes, a piece of dark-colored cloth is placed, which is abundantly sprinkled with sugar or moistened with jam or thick sugar syrup.

Then the dishes are placed near the colony of ants. The ant uterus, and after it all the other ants will move into such a “comfortable” ant hill. After which it is necessary either to throw it away, or destroy it with all the "residents".

Ever since Soviet times, gardeners and gardeners knew that if ants settled in a greenhouse how to get them out with the help of mustard. For 1 liter of hot water, you need to take 60 g of dry mustard powder, and then insist for three days in a tightly closed container.

In the event that all of the above methods did not bring the expected effect, then industrial pesticides are used.

Industrial pesticides

This is the last and most extreme remedy for ants in the greenhouse. In such widely advertised preparations as “Thunder-2”, “Muratsid”, “Anteater”, “Ants” there is one and the same active substance - diazinon.

In addition to these drugs, you can use German Delicia and Expel powders. When using pesticides, it should be remembered that they are toxic and dangerous to other insects, such as bees, as well as to domestic animals.

As mentioned above, there are many methods using natural and natural components that will save your greenhouse or hotbed from ants and will not harm you, your family members, or pets.

Anthill in the greenhouse: what to do

One of the main problems in conducting gardening is to get rid of the destructive activity of ants and drive them away. But fighting ants is not an easy task. Of course, it cannot be denied that the benefits of these insects are also great.

They enrich the earth with nitrogen, potassium, humus, perfectly loosen the soil, providing air access to the roots of plants, destroy pests. But at the same time they spread aphids, arrange nests, because of which bushes of plants, especially strawberries, die.

And if the ants settled in the greenhouse, then the root system of young vegetable crops begins to suffer. How can you destroy ants in a greenhouse? We offer various methods for solving this problem.

Destruction of ants will help the destruction of their nests, which are often found in garden areas.

Chemical treatment

The most famous are agents with boric acid or brown. These preparations are scattered along ant paths and around their nests.But with this method, colonies of worker ants die, and the uterus with the offspring remains.

Therefore, it is better to mix borax with sugar: 50 ml of water and 50 g of sugar per 5 g of the preparation. Pour the solution into small saucers and arrange on the habitats of insects. The ants will deliver this sweet mixture to the uterus, as a result, it will also die.

Superphosphate, ammonium nitrate, or fluff lime can also be used to treat ant trails and nests. You can make a recess in the anthill and place a small piece of quicklime there. A 20% solution of carbolic acid or a solution of bleach are also used.

Aqueous solutions (1:10) of malathion or formalin are recommended for treating cracks in the greenhouse and ant heaps. Spraying is carried out 2-3 times. This method also helps in the fight against alien ants.

Plant Fighting

Arrange anise or tomato leaves in the greenhouse next to the anthills. Also, the ants do not tolerate the smell of parsley, cloves, wild mint, wormwood, spoiled lemon.

You can spray the greenhouse with infusion of wormwood. To prepare it, 300 g of fresh wormwood should be brewed with boiling water and infused in 10 l of cold water for several hours. If you take wormwood in dried form, then you need only 30 g. The spray solution itself is not diluted.

Folk ways

You can get rid of ants in the event that no ants remain from the colony. You can use such tools for this:

Special tools

In addition to boiling water, you can use special insecticidal solutions, but remember that in this case you will need to use personal protective equipment:

After you managed to drive out all the ants from the greenhouse, look for the reason for their appearance.This is especially true of greenhouses with a wooden base or boards separating the beds. Check for rotten ones? Audit plants. Perhaps some of them are covered in aphids.

Try to do more simple, harmless means. Constantly loosen the soil in the greenhouse. The anthill will disappear if you dig up the royal womb and remove it.

Effective Ways to Combat Garden Ants

In nature, ants bring great benefits: enrich the earth with humus, potassium, nitrogen, phosphorus, magnesium, accelerate the decomposition of organic residues, destroy pests. But for garden plots, a small ant often becomes a big disaster. Ants spoil berries and fruits, spread aphids, arrange nests, inhibit the growth of shrubs.

If they are wound up in a greenhouse or a greenhouse, then the root system of vegetable crops begins to suffer, which can lead to the death of plants. Settling in a garden, garden or greenhouse, ants, as a rule, do not bother with the construction of high capital anthills, as their forest counterparts do.

The maximum that you will find is a small hill of land. Also, the fact that ants have gotten into your greenhouse is evidenced by a lot of neat round holes in the soil and insects swarming around them.

The presence of ants in the greenhouse brings pluses: these insects enrich the earth with nitrogen, perfectly loosen the soil, which ensures air access to the roots of the plant, and destroy other pests.

To destroy ants in the greenhouse is a difficult task, but feasible. The fight against ants is complicated by the fact that the main part of their home is hidden underground.

Uninvited guests can be escorted only by destroying the entire anthill. All methods of combating these insects can be divided into three groups: folk remedies, chemicals and agricultural methods.

Chemicals

One way to kill ants is chemical. Remember, chemistry will not only destroy the hated insects, but also ruin the soil.

There are special chemicals, the purpose of which is the fight against ants. The most famous tool is the insecticide "Thunder" (in granules). The upper layer of earth is removed from the anthill and granules are evenly sprinkled on the surface.

The amount of drug used depends on the area of ​​the anthill. The place of application is sprinkled with earth. After 2-4 days, the greenhouse will be rid of insects.

Any drug from the Colorado potato beetle or aphids is bred in 1 liter of water. The resulting solution is poured into the center of the anthill and covered on top with plastic wrap for a day. Such a "gas chamber" will destroy the entire colony to the lowest tiers.

Another reliable modern remedy is the Absolute capsule bait from ants. Thanks to specially selected attractive ingredients, ants, even with an abundance of alternative food, will not be able to pass by the capsule.

Its principle of action is based on the behavioral and biological characteristics of ants. Already on 1-3 days a decrease in the number of the ant family is observed, and complete destruction occurs after 10-14 days.

A lot of positive reviews about the drug "Anteater."This liquid product is available in ampoules or vials. Before use, first 1 ml of the drug is dissolved in 1 liter of water, and then, with constant stirring, the working volume is brought up to 10 liters.

The resulting solution is not subject to storage, therefore, it must be prepared immediately before use.

An anthill is dug up to egg laying and watered with a ready-made solution. Processing is carried out in the morning or evening hours. For processing an area of ​​5 square meters. m you need only 10 liters of solution.

The drug does not adversely affect earthworms and soil microorganisms, and is not addictive in insects. But it should be kept away from water, as it contains substances hazardous to fish.

Agrotechnical methods

Ants and millet - a disastrous combination for the first. The fact is that the stomach of a small insect cannot digest this croup, and it dies.

In addition to chemicals, agronomic methods will also help you get rid of ants. Constantly loosen the soil in the greenhouse. Ants do not like anxiety and will move to another, more calm place. An anthill can be sprinkled with ground pepper, ash, dry mustard, slaked lime, ammonium nitrate.

The most common way is to fill the anthill with a solution of lime. To do this, 100 g of dry lime is dissolved in a bucket of water. Freshly prepared solution pour anthill. Insects will quickly leave their home. Lime also destroys other pests and their larvae that have settled in the greenhouse.

In addition, lime neutralizes the acidity of the soil, which favorably affects the development of plants. Ants are extremely sensitive to odors. They will be led to mass exodus by tomato tops scattered around the anthill, leaves of wormwood, wild mint or parsley.

Garlic is considered to be the recognized ant control agent. It is necessary to crush a large head of garlic with a strong, vigorous smell, add water and let it brew for a day. Then water this anthill with this infusion.

Folk remedies

Try to eliminate the cause of the appearance of ants in your area, look at the greenhouses for rot, check the boards separating the beds.

Then put the bait directly into the greenhouse and wait for the ants to get drunk. Drunk ants, forgetting about their duties, stop feeding the young. Repeat this process several times and the ant nest will die.

The anthill lives as long as the ant queen is in it. You can dig an anthill, find and remove the royal uterus from it, but if you do not want to tear up an ant nest, you can do differently.

You need to pour a mixture of sugar and borax onto the path. Insects themselves will take this treat to the queen. She will perish, and with her the whole kingdom.

Fighting ants requires a competent and integrated approach. Improper treatment can lead to a quick restoration of their numbers and their addiction to the group of toxic substances that were used for processing.

How to get rid of ants in a greenhouse

Black garden ants eat caterpillars of silkworms and larvae of apple moths, perfectly loosen the soil, enriching it with potassium and nitrogen. But it is these ants that are faithful guardians of aphids, and when equipping the underground part of the anthill, “hard workers” thoroughly spoil the roots of greenhouse plants.

Poison bait

The ant community is organized according to the strict laws of the hierarchy, and if you want to eliminate it, abandon surface insecticides - they will affect only a small part of the working insects.

Take into service the prolonged gels and baits - they will begin to act inside the nest after the working individual feeds them with its larvae and ant uterus.

Toxic powder is usually scattered in places of concentration of ants, delving into the anthill for three centimeters. From above, the poison is covered with a thin layer of earth.

Crayons and gels also exude a fragrance that no ant can resist. The crayon acts akin to the powder bait - it kills the ant uterus and its offspring in three days. And in two weeks, not a single insect will be in the greenhouse.

Chalks and gels draw lines on the boards and lay them out:

• near anthills;
• on ant trails;
• in the favorite habitats of these insects.

During the action of the product, it is necessary to ensure that it is not washed off by water and dust does not powder.

Other ways to get rid

Borax and boric acid will help to overcome these ubiquitous insects.

You can prepare a solution of 5 g of borax, 50 ml of sugar and the same amount of water. Pour the mixture over the saucers and place them on the ant trails. The provisions will be delivered to the ant queen and larvae. Not immediately, but the nest will disappear.

You can arrange a chemical attack on insects by “injecting” a small piece of quicklime into the anthill, or by pouring carbolic acid (20% solution) or bleach into it.

Slots in the greenhouse and the ant nests themselves are also sprayed with 10% formalin or karbofos solutions. We also recommend that you find out how often you need to change the soil in the greenhouse.

It is believed that ants flee from the smell of plants such as:

These plants are placed near anthills or prepare infusion (from wormwood) and spray them with all the greenhouse cracks.

The people acquired their own measures to combat ants, noting, for example, that they are very afraid of garlic. You can simply pour garlic infusion into the anthill or place a mixture of sawdust and grated garlic next to the ant house.

When thinking about how to get rid of ants in a greenhouse, try to minimize chemical treatment to a minimum. In pursuit of the harvest, do not forget about your own health.